A brief description of my time in Kampala… We spent an inordinate
amount of time trying to find a VISA atm upon arrival. I saw a few instances of
women expressing aggression towards men which was startling but also
refreshing. Boda drivers spent more time talking to me than driving on the
correct side of the road… or on the road at all really. We got lost… a lot. I
swear it was significantly hotter in Kampala than Kigali. We spent one of the
best days ever roaming Entebbe. Then we got lost some more. I got a few fun
souvenirs from a touristy craft village. I tried Nile beer, nom. We went to the
Royal Palace, walked the Royal Mile to the Scottish Parliament and I promptly
stopped functioning as a human.
Some differences between Kampala and Kigali, the middle
class is well established and visible through the greater amounts of shopping
malls, credit card advertisements, and restaurants. As well as the markedly
more expensive bodas. The traditional Bugandan Kingdom is also still intact and
operating within Uganda unlike Rwanda where there is a disconnect from
tradition and cultural heritage. Obviously, there are a few reasons that is,
but it was interesting to learn more about the development of Uganda and see a
different part of history.
One disconcerting idea from the week is how Uganda appears
to have embraced both colonial rule and the missionary movement. The general sentiment
in the National Museum was, before we weren’t colonized, then we were and we
learned all of these wonderful things, and then we all became Christian and now
life is good. Stockholm Syndrome anyone?
I had spent an entire day saying it looked like it was going
to storm. Because it did. We were finishing up our business in the city center
and were about to get bodas back to the hostel when the wind started and the
sky went completely dark. End of the world style. Crap… quickly please,
Backpackers Hostel, negotiated a price, and off we went. I want to say my boda
went about 100 yards before the down pour. The boda driver pulled over
immediately but we were both soaked and sought refuge in a cell phone store. After
approximately fifteen minutes of waiting for the storm to die down, it looked
like there was no end in sight so we decided to go. Had we continued through
the down pour in the first place, it would have been unpleasant, cold, and wet
but it would have worked out. Instead, we waited just long enough for the roads
to flood. At point, the boda stalled in a two foot stream of water rushing down
the hill we were trying to go up. Cars were driving past blowing dirty city
street water up covering the boda driver and me as bystanders laughed and
pointed. I thought these things only happened in movies. About ten minutes
after I got back to the hostel, the rain stopped. At least I had a good reason
to have a cup of African tea.
In summary, I enjoyed Kampala. It was nice to get out of
Rwanda for a bit and even nicer to spend some time away from a big city.
As I am writing this at my desk, waiting for a meeting that
was supposed to take place yesterday afternoon, a man is hanging out of my
fourth floor window trying to paint the outside of the building with an
extended paint roller. I have suspected for some time now that I am actually
working in an abandoned building. We lose power daily and often for extended
periods of time, running water is a rarity, and the first two floors of the
building are filled with what looks like piles of rubbish and discarded parts
of furniture.
My squatter status was confirmed in my mind when I arrived
at work yesterday morning and a demolition crew was tearing up the floor of the
first and second floors. The dust is everywhere. I entered the building today
and the stairs are now destroyed to the extent that I get to pretend to be a
mountain climber for the first two stories. And now a man is hanging out of my
window with a paint roller duct taped to a seven foot stick teetering back and
forth as he attempts to paint the exterior of an office building.
Times I wish I had a camera… and a safety net/trampoline for
the man.
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